The steering wheel is slightly offset to the right. I'm pretty sure it's cheaper than buying a Z3 shifter and all of the bushings and stuff that go with it. The reason for this is that it eliminates $50 in bushings and shortens the throw. I'd recommend the garagistic shifter or maybe something more exotic (assuming you can find a way to keep the motor/trans mounts stiff). You will probably need to buy/install a trans shift pin kit. Not sure what 0-point options are out there. They have upgraded ball joints and aren't that bad on price. Use the Z4/ZHP front control arms when you replace yours.
E46 m3 differential rebuild raleigh nc driver#
Some have put another pump on the driver side to pump fuel back to the main pump. Maybe add a surge tank, if you want to spend some more money. Just buy an ///M sump for ~$30 and add it to the tank. It takes about 15 minutes. It's huge, but I kept mine.įuel system is pretty good. You can modify the huge ass 'lighting module' controller programming that controls the headlights. You can modify the brake module programming. Works well with can enabled data devices. There is a lot of data available over the CAN bus. The 3.07 and 2.93 had a slightly different thickness ring gear. Be sure to get the one for the 3.15 and higher ratio. If you go LSD, M-factory is probably a decent option. Open diff was the only diff offered, so you'll have to weld or take points for an LSD or run an open diff. M style bumpers are cheap on Ebay but probably better to buy from Bimmerworld.Not sure how Champ is interpreting those for points. The cat is built into the manifold, so figure you'll have to gut it for no points or take the hit for a header. It was almost undriveable.īe sure to buy an oring for the power steering reservoir. They have a tendency to fail and the outer ring will rotate.ĭo not delete power steering unless you can find a really slow rack. My 330 weighs ~2600 lbs dry with no driver. Rear subframe mounts, but this is easily prevented or remedied. Once all the non essentials are removed, actually pretty easy to work on.Ĭan fit 255's under the fenders with a roll.
I think you would ideally either want a 325 or 330 from a competitive standpoint, we just have a 323 because it was cheap and haven't changed it because the engine refuses to die. New parts also seem cheap, assuming due to the sheer number of e46's that were made. Parts wise we've found it easy to find whole parts cars for sale with something silly like that ECU/Key relationship failed where mechanically they are sound but have some electrical repair that is cost prohibitive in the $400-1000, which is a great source of mechanical spares. Our car has the 323 engine, so is definitely a little down on power to the fast cars, but the motor had 186,000 when we bought it and just passed its 3000th race mile with nothing more than oil changes and a set of spark plugs. The coolant expansion tank is worth carrying a spare, they are prone to explode.Īll in all though, ours has been pretty bulletproof. The drive shaft center bearing is worth the few bucks to carry a spare. keep a few spare rear camber arms and control arms around, they seem to bend easy.
There are companies that will do it for a couple hundred bucks, and if you want put a slight performance tune on it.
Its worthwhile getting this feature removed from the ECU. There is a module that ties the ECU/anti-theft/key together so that the key has to be matched to the ECU. The rear sub frame mounting points are a weak point, and there are reinforcement kits readily available. 330 brakes will fit all e46's and are incredible. Can't really talk about competitive, because we're not (yet) Some things we have learned from a reliability standpoint.
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